2017.005.001 Oral History Interview with David Eng and Ming Mui

 

In this interview, David Eng and Ming Mui reflect on the rich history and challenges faced by their family business, Fong Inn Too, a retail and wholesale shop specializing in freshly made traditional Taishanese staples. Davids grandfather, a Taishanese native who immigrated from Cuba, founded the shop in 1931 with several partners. Managed later by Davids parents, the shop became known for its unique family recipes, which required extensive preparation and drew a loyal customer base. David discusses the impact of changing demographics, particularly the shift away from traditional production practices among younger generations and the increased competition from modern businesses. The family business consequently struggled as the older generation of customers dwindled and newer immigrants preferred more convenient options. David also shares the background and story of various family members who ran the shop, including its founding by his grandfather, his grandfathers sponsorship of his father as a paper son, and his mother immigrating as a war bride and taking over management of operations after his father fell ill despite significant challenges. David Eng and Ming Mui touch on their broader community impact, noting how the family brought many people from their home village to New York, creating a support network. Despite efforts to modernize and sustain the business, including negotiations with nonprofit organizations for funding, the shop ultimately closed due to economic pressures and a lack of interest from the next generation. David emphasizes the contributions of his family to Chinatown, their resilience, and the enduring legacy they left in the community, even as he navigates the complexities of maintaining and preserving this heritage in a rapidly changing world.

0:00 - Introduction. David discusses the closure of the shop. Despite the increasing number of people coming to Chinatown, changing consumer habits and intense competition contributed to declining customers. Although the shop thrived by making fresh traditional Toisanese staples, the younger generation preferred ready-made processed options that suited their fast-paced lifestyles. Cultural and language barriers further complicated matters, and ultimately, the shop could not compete and had to close

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9:37 - David shares that his family shop began in 1931 with his grandfather, who immigrated from Cuba. David's father arrived in 1936 as a paper son In 1953, his grandfather passed away. In 1963, David's father returned to Hong Kong due to health issues. The family bought out their business partners in 1986, maintaining control for 30 years. David notes that his grandfather's generation viewed themselves as Chinese first, while subsequent generations became more rooted in the U.S.

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18:07 - The shop began in the basement at 43 Mott Street and relocated to 46 Mott Street after a fire in 1963-64, where it remained for over 50 years. It specializes in bai tang gao, tofu, soy milk, noodles, and herbal tea. Filipinos became a significant part of its customer base over the past 30-35 years and particularly enjoyed bai tang gao and tofu pudding. However, many left New York due to high living costs

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20:40 - David's grandfather was inspired by his name to open the shop. After David's father developed a health condition, David's mother took over the business. She played a crucial role in bringing many relatives to work in the store. Ming Mui shared how David's mom sponsored his father and grandfather from Brazil. The shop's decline was partly due to competition and the lack of a younger generation to take over. However, a nonprofit organization is considering funding the reboot of the business.

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33:25 - David discusses the unique family recipes of the shop, such as bai tang gao, which takes 30 days to prepare. These recipes have kept loyal customers returning for years. After eight years of deficits and old habits, David and his brother plan to reboot the business

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47:45 - David's father, a paper son, immigrated under false documents. After serving in the army, he naturalized and reclaimed his original name

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53:46 - David reflects on the historical significance of businesses in Chinatown, emphasizing such establishments' lasting impact and community ties

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